Diy Sofa Table – Customize your furniture
Welcome to the DIY part of Kylie.T. Interiors. I was on the hunt for another DIY project and after a little internet browsing decided to complement my living room with some much-needed tablespace. I could have bought a coffee table as I am yet to own one but there would have been no space left for my kids to do cartwheels across the room – so I decided on a DIY sofa table instead, and yes they wrestle and do a lot of cartwheels there, bless them. I needed my sofa table to fit between the sofa and the wall – 10 inches wide and 6’ 3” long to be exact, hmmm time to make my own. Here you’ll learn how to custom build this elegant Diy sofa Table. It can be tailored to any size, color and style depending on your needs. In my case, I chose the color white and used simple lines to harmonize with current my decor. If you can use a drill, you can make this handy piece of accent furniture. Oh did I mention you can do it all for less than $50…
Measurements below are to make the same size DIY sofa table that I made. Tailor the measurements of your own DIY sofa table to fit your space accordingly. Remember for a neater look –drill pilot holes and countersink all screws so your screws go in straight and you can fill, sand and paint over them to make them disappear.
1 – Tabletop wood – I used a piece of 1”x10” (2.5cmx25cm) Poplar cut to 6’-5” (190cm) (Home Depot or Bunnings)
2 – Legs – I used four 41” x 1-1/4” (104cmx3cm) Primed Square Balusters cut to 29¾”(75.5cm), save the cut-offs (Home Depot)
3 – Leg braces – cut 2 pieces at 6½” (16.5cm) long from the cut-off pieces from your Baluster legs
4 – Table skirting (apron) – I used 1’ x 3” (2.5cmx7.6cm) pine cut into 4 pieces. 2 x 5’-11” (202cm) and 2 x 6½”,(16.5cm)
5 – Screws – Self-driven 3¼ (8.25cm)
6 – Drill with wood and spade bits
7 – Sandable wood filler
8 – Sandpaper and a sanding block
9 – Paint – suitable for wood. I used some interior paint I had left over from painting my doors.
10 – Wood stain
11 – Pencil
12 – Tape measure
13 – Water spray
14 – Paper towel
How do we make it?
Step one: Cut your skirting, tabletop, legs and leg brace pieces to the desired length, I had this done at Home Depot (Bunnings). Make sure to state you want your legs the exact same size. Mine are 29¾” (75.5cm). I used balusters though you can cut down a piece of 2”x2, or even buy ready-made legs. 2 of the cut-off pieces from my balusters were then cut to 6½” (16.5cm) lengths for the leg braces. In total you will have one table top, 2x short skirting pieces, 2x long skirting pieces, 4 legs and 2 leg braces.
Step two: Attaching the legs to the skirting. Place the skirting and leg pieces together in the way they will eventually be and, on your legs mark the depth of your skirting. Separate the pieces and now mark the center line of this as shown in the photo below. Doing this will help you pinpoint the exact spot where you want your pilot hole for your screws to go. Pilot holes help drive screws straighter and prevent your wood splitting, this way you can ensure you are going to drill through the center of the skirting piece. I copied my kitchen table and dropped the skirting back a little to create a lip on the leg so it wasn’t flush at the front, however, make sure the skirting piece and leg is flush at the top. Now you are lined up, drill your pilot hole through both the leg and into skirting. The skirting position needs to be the same on each side. TIP: Stacking the legs and drilling the pilot holes at the same time is an easy way to achieve this. Then, using it as a guide, you can drill through the pilot hole of your leg into the second end of the skirting for an exact match of the previous side.
Step three: Take 1 leg and secure it to the skirting with glue and a countersunk screw. Take the second leg and secure it to the other side of the same piece of skirting with glue and another countersunk screw.
Step four: Bracing the legs. Take a piece of 6½” baluster. Secure this to the inside of the legs at both ends with glue and a countersunk a screw. Mine is about 8” up from the bottom. Make sure it’s level.
Step five: Repeat steps two to four for the other set of legs, skirting and baluster brace piece. You now have your 2 sets of legs.
Step six: Making the base. Take one of the long skirting pieces at 5’-11”, mark and drill your pilot holes then glue and screw it to the top of one of the legs as shown. Again make sure it’s flush at the top. Repeat the same with the other piece of 5’-11” skirting to the other leg of the leg set.
Step seven: Finishing the base. Screw and glue the second set of legs to the other end of the long skirting pieces ensuring they are also flush with the top. You now have your table base.
Step eight: With the legs and skirting now made, patch up the countersunk screws with sand-able wood filler and set aside to dry.
Step nine: Sand the edges of the table top to the desired feel. I like to smooth off the sharp corners and edges. This is the top, the showstopper so make sure to put in lots of effort in here. I did it by hand but a power sander would have been awesome.
Step ten: Stain the top, using a wipe on wipe off motion. Follow the directions on the side of the can
Step eleven: Paint the edges and underneath of the table top with your color choice. Mine is white.
Step twelve: Wash over the stain on the table top by applying some random strokes of paint the same color as the sides and bottom. Spray it with a little water and then wipe off with a paper towel to the desired effect. If you like the speckled effect that I have here spray a little more water on the top and wipe again. When I did this it took the paint off only where the water spray touched, I liked it.
Sand a little around the edges to distress further if you like this look.
Step thirteen: Once dry, stencil on your print. Make sure you plan out where it will begin and end so it is centered to the top. Set aside and allow to dry. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look all that neat (little helper), it will ultimately be distressed to give it a better look.
Step fourteen: Take the legs and sand the wood filler so it is smooth and flush with the legs. Paint desired color and set aside to dry.
Step fifteen: Once the stenciling on the table top is dry sand it over to achieve the desired smoothness and amount of distressing you want.
Step sixteen: Once dry, turn your tabletop over so it’s facing down, position your base on tabletop and mark drill holes for the top of the legs to slot into. Remove base and drill holes with your spade drill bit.
Step seventeen: Apply glue to top of base and into drill holes and position legs back into their finished place under table top. Screw in place through the skirting. Make sure to use screws down the length of the skirting to keep it in place. I have only 2 shown here.
Step eighteen: Apply 2 coats of polyurethane to the top of the table, allow to dry…
…and you’re done! Your very own DIY sofa table.